It is generally best to begin at the beginning, the soil. If you have the time and inclination you can warm your soil to gain an advantage. Warm your soil by planning ahead. Cover your garden bed with a think layer of mulch, some compost or thick black plastic before Winter hits your area. With the added protection, the covered soil will not get quite as cold as your unprotected soil. This means that the covered soil will also get warmer earlier come Spring. Therefore, the soil will be above average temperature and easier to work with for early planting. When putting your seeds into the ground, leave that protective layer in place, simply move aside the mulch or compost covering where you want to plant, or cut a small hole in the plastic, and keep that soil protected as the seeds germinate and begin to grow.
Another thing you can do is to protect freshly planted seeds and seedlings is to work from above. Use a row cover or frost cover to protect your vulnerable garden bed. Covers are polyester or polyethylene fabrics which let in water and sunlight but protects plants from cold temperatures. If you have chosen a very lightweight cover, and all threat of snow has past, then you can simply lay the cover on your plants. With the heavier covers, or if any threat of snow remains, then it is best to support the cover with plastic or wire hoops. Pull the supported fabric tight enough to keep it from drooping and touching the plants or soil. Do not forget to secure the edges of your cover with rocks, soil or other implements.
Wintersowing takes advantage of the natural order of things. This is simply doing what nature does with wildflowers and trees. They drop their seeds in the fall or late summer, spending the winter getting rained and snowed on, freezing and thawing again, and then still sprout and grow come Spring. Wintersowing generally is done in January or February, right in the heart of winter. To wintersow you place seeds in a moist growing medium in prepared containers, then setting your planted seeds, in their containers, outside in the winter weather. Leave the tops of your containers open to allow for air circulation and some precipitation to keep your soil moist. It would be wise to check your moisture level occasionally so that the container does not dry out. While out in the weather your seeds will freeze, thaw, get wet and do all the things seeds do naturally. When the weather begins to warm up the container will act like a greenhouse, providing your seeds with some extra warmth. If a late cold snap or frost makes an appearance then the containers will protect the seeds from that as well. When the time is right, and your seeds are ready, you will have sprouts and then seedlings.
Some of the plants that do well started early under and of these conditions, or a combination of them, include leeks, peas, turnips, beets and carrots. Salad mixes, spinach, scallions and watercress are also resilient to handle early starts. When in doubt read your seed packets, talk to an expert at a nursery or seed company, or fellow gardener.
Regardless of what you are growing, or why, the earlier your plants reach maturity the better. If you are selling your harvest for profit, being first to produce can be important to your market share or profit and allow for a second harvest. If you are growing to provide food for your own use, or flowers for pure esthetics, than early can also mean a second round of harvest or simply early and long enjoyment of your favorite garden plants.
Naturally Lilly's 